Ductwork replacement costs $1,400 to $5,600 for a typical US home in 2026, with most whole-house jobs landing around $3,000 to $4,000. Priced another way, new ducts run roughly $10 to $30 per linear foot installed. Where your job falls inside that range depends on your home’s size, the duct material, how easy the runs are to reach, and whether old ducts have to come out first.
Ductwork is also the most commonly overlooked line item when people budget for a new HVAC system. Equipment gets all the attention, but leaky or undersized ducts can waste 20 to 30 percent of the air your system produces — so replacing them is often the single best return on a comfort and efficiency dollar.
Ductwork Replacement Cost at a Glance
The fastest way to ballpark a job is per linear foot, then sanity-check it against the whole-house range.
| Pricing basis | Typical 2026 range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Per linear foot (installed) | $10 – $30 / ft | Material plus labor; flex is cheapest, sheet metal highest |
| Small / partial replacement | $1,000 – $2,500 | A few problem runs or one zone |
| Whole-house, average home | $3,000 – $4,000 | ~1,800–2,200 sq ft, decent access |
| Whole-house, full range | $1,400 – $5,600 | Small/easy on the low end, large/complex on the high end |
| Large or two-story, tight access | $5,000 – $8,000+ | Multiple stories, finished walls, long trunk runs |
A typical home has 150 to 300 linear feet of ductwork. Multiply your run length by a per-foot rate for the material you want, and you have a working estimate before any contractor walks the job.
Where a ductwork job's cost goes
What Drives Ductwork Cost Up or Down
Two homes the same size can quote thousands of dollars apart. These are the factors that move the number:
- Home size and number of runs. More square footage means more linear feet of duct and more registers and returns to connect. This is the biggest single driver of total cost.
- Duct material. Flexible duct is the cheapest to buy and install; rigid sheet metal is the most durable and the most expensive in labor; fiberglass ductboard sits in between.
- Accessibility. Ducts in an open basement or unfinished attic are quick to reach. Runs buried in finished walls, ceilings, or a tight crawlspace add hours and dollars fast.
- Removal of old ducts. Tearing out and hauling away the old system is real labor. If the old material contains asbestos (common in homes built before the 1980s), abatement by a licensed contractor can add $1,000 to $3,000+ on its own.
- Number of registers and returns. Each supply register and return grille is a connection point with its own material and labor.
- Design complexity. A proper Manual D duct design — sizing every run to the room loads — costs more up front but prevents the comfort and efficiency problems that come from guessed-at sizing.
- Permits and inspection. Typically $150 to $500, and required in most jurisdictions. A legitimate quote includes them.
- Region and labor rates. Labor in the Northeast and on the West Coast runs 25 to 35 percent above the national average for identical work.
Duct Material Comparison
Material choice is the lever you control most directly. Here is how the three common options compare.
| Material | Rough $/ft installed | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flexible duct | $8 – $15 | Cheapest, fast to install, fits tight attics | Kinks and sags choke airflow; shorter life |
| Sheet metal | $15 – $30 | Most durable, smooth interior, best airflow | Highest labor cost; must be sealed and insulated |
| Fiberglass ductboard | $10 – $20 | Built-in insulation, quiet operation | Can harbor mold if it gets wet; harder to clean |
Many installs mix materials — rigid sheet metal for the main trunk lines and flex for the short final connections to registers. That blend keeps airflow strong where it matters while controlling labor cost.
Duct material vs. installed cost per foot
Repair vs Full Replacement
You do not always need new ductwork. Sealing and minor repair is far cheaper, and it is the right call more often than contractors selling full replacements will admit. The question is whether the existing system is fundamentally sound.
Repair and seal is usually enough when:
- The ducts are under 15 to 20 years old and in good condition
- The problem is leakage at joints — fixable with mastic, foil tape (UL 181), and re-hanging sagging runs
- A few specific runs are damaged but the rest of the system is fine
- The ducts are correctly sized for the equipment
Full replacement is the better call when:
- The ducts are 15 to 20+ years old and near end of life
- Leakage is widespread and sealing would be a patch on a failing system
- There is mold growth inside the ducts, or moisture damage to ductboard
- The old material contains asbestos and is deteriorating
- The ducts are undersized for the system, choking airflow no amount of sealing will fix
- You are replacing the HVAC system anyway and the ducts are original
Repair and seal, or full replacement?
Signs You Need New Ductwork
Ductwork rarely fails all at once. Watch for these signs that the system is past repair:
- Uneven temperatures between rooms or floors — some spaces never get comfortable
- High energy bills that climb even though the equipment is sized correctly
- Whistling, rattling, or booming noises when the system cycles on and off
- Excess dust throughout the house, pulled in through leaky return-side joints
- Visible damage — crushed flex, disconnected joints, rust, or sagging runs
- Age over 15 to 20 years, especially with original flex duct or fiberglass ductboard
One or two of these may only mean sealing is due. Several at once, on an aging system, point toward replacement.
How to Estimate Your Job
You can build a credible estimate yourself before you call anyone. Walk it step by step:
- Measure total duct run. Add up the linear feet of supply and return ducting. No tape measure on the runs? Use 150 to 300 ft as a rough whole-house figure based on home size.
- Pick a material $/ft. Use $8–$15 for flex, $15–$30 for sheet metal, or $10–$20 for ductboard. Multiply by your run length.
- Add registers and returns. Count them and budget roughly $40 to $100 each, installed.
- Add removal and access. Add for tearing out old ducts, and more if runs are in finished walls or a tight crawlspace. Add asbestos abatement separately if the home predates the 1980s.
- Add permits. Budget $150 to $500.
- Add a contingency. Tack on 10 to 15 percent for surprises behind the walls.
For example, 220 ft of flex at $12/ft is $2,640, plus 10 registers at $70 each ($700), plus $500 removal and $300 permit — roughly $4,140 before contingency. That is squarely in the typical whole-house range.
To skip the arithmetic, run your numbers through the Ductwork Replacement Cost Calculator. If you are also replacing equipment, the HVAC Replacement Cost Calculator covers the whole project, and our guide to how much a new HVAC system costs puts ductwork in context with the rest of the install.
Use the Free Calculator
Ductwork Replacement Cost Calculator — get your exact answer in seconds.
Enter your home size or total duct run, pick a material, and the calculator returns an installed cost estimate for your job. Pair it with the HVAC Replacement Cost Calculator if new equipment is part of the plan.
FAQ
How much does it cost to replace ductwork in a whole house?
Whole-house ductwork replacement typically runs $1,400 to $5,600, with most homes landing around $3,000 to $4,000. Smaller homes with easy access fall toward the low end, while larger or two-story homes with finished walls, long trunk runs, or asbestos removal can reach $5,000 to $8,000 or more. The biggest drivers are total duct length, material choice, and how hard the runs are to reach.
What is the cost per foot to replace ductwork?
Expect $10 to $30 per linear foot installed, including material and labor. Flexible duct is cheapest at roughly $8 to $15 per foot, fiberglass ductboard runs $10 to $20, and rigid sheet metal is the most expensive at $15 to $30 per foot because of the added labor to fabricate and seal it. A typical home has 150 to 300 feet of ductwork.
Is it worth replacing old ductwork?
Often, yes. Ducts more than 15 to 20 years old commonly leak 20 to 30 percent of the air the system produces, which shows up as high bills and uneven comfort. If the ducts are undersized, full of mold, or contain deteriorating asbestos, replacement is the right call. If they are simply leaky but otherwise sound, sealing and minor repair is much cheaper and may be all you need.
Does replacing ductwork improve efficiency and home value?
Yes on efficiency — properly sized and sealed ducts deliver more of the conditioned air your equipment produces, cutting waste and improving comfort in every room. The home-value effect is smaller and indirect: buyers value lower energy bills and a system that heats and cools evenly, but new ductwork is rarely itemized in an appraisal the way a new roof or HVAC unit is. The strongest payback is on your monthly bills and day-to-day comfort.
Can I replace ductwork myself?
A handy homeowner can reseal joints with mastic and foil tape, but full replacement is best left to a professional. Proper sizing requires a Manual D design, the connections must be airtight, and most jurisdictions require a permit and inspection for ductwork. DIY mistakes — undersized runs, leaky joints, poor support — quietly waste money for years and can void equipment warranties. Sealing is a reasonable DIY task; replacement usually is not.